The team behind Passion Food Hospitality (Ceiba, Passion Fish, DC Coast, District Commons, and the late-lamented Tenh Penh) opened this tribute to New Orleans cooking in the wake of Hurricane Katrina, both of which turned out to be smash hits.   The vast space, decorated in what the designer calls “Drunken Romans” matches arched and vaulted ceilings with elaborate chandeliers, chalky urns, gauzy window treatments and over-sized mirrors. An open kitchen draws the eye, but the mezzanine-level long bar is where the action is. It’s the perfect vantage point for sipping champagne, downing oysters and eyeing the crowd. Chef/owner Jeff Tunks, a veteran of NoLa’s famed Winsdor Court Hotel, strikes the right chord with the menu here, in the capable hands of executive chef Brant Tesky. Fans of Louisiana cooking will have a hard time choosing from cheeky twists on familiar favorites: deviled eggs gussied up with caviar, crisp bacon, and lump crabmeat, Buffalo-style frog’s legs, jalapeno grits under veal “grillades” dressed with silken demi-glaze. Gumbos, chestnut brown from patiently-darkened roux, are must-haves.