Some restaurants try to dazzle with dozens of tiny courses or other gastronomical tricks. But there are still places where a steak is a steak—and a darn good one, at that. Bobby Van’s Grill thankfully delivers on its straightforward promise. Not far from the Convention Center, this steakhouse lures the power players with its distinguished dining room and hearty plates, often served with a side of political horse-trading. Servers clad in tan coats, white shirts and maroon ties treat everyone like a VIP. Wood paneling, tapestried booths and a grand chandelier hovering over a curling staircase in the middle of the dining room harken back to a time when dining out in D.C. was a much more formal affair. Of the steaks, which come broiled unless requested otherwise, the two-inch-thick, dry-aged, bone-in sirloin is a fine choice. Served with potato straws and Bobby Van’s bottled sauce -- sweet and spiked with horseradish -- the steak is a meat-and-potatoes dream realized. The burger, which comes with hand-cut fries, is a great iteration, in what is fast becoming a burger town. The all-jumbo lump crab cake makes for an elegant appetizer or a satisfying entrée. If you’re ravenous, sides of grilled asparagus or hash browns in the style of home fries are large enough for four people to share. In an age when food trends come and go as fast as White House chiefs of staff, it’s nice to have something that stands the test of time -- and remains a culinary cornerstone.