You catch fragrant whiffs of your meal before the plates hit the table at this blue ribbon Thai restaurant set back from Fairfax Boulevard. The panang exudes coconut and peanut tones with an underlying hint of basil; floral jasmine floats up from steaming bowls of rice; and the scent of fresh mint and cilantro practically leaps off the soft rolls. The exhaustive menu features such a strong selection of regional favorites that it can be hard to make decisions. (Don’t worry if you over order, because the leftovers hold up well.) Begin with the little curlicues of chewy sun-dried beef that are flash fried, then served with a fiery and slightly fermented sriracha-style sauce. Entrees are generously portioned and well suited for sharing, so order family style for the best results. The peanutty panang with pork, chicken or beef is sweet and creamy to start, but finishes with a fiery flourish. On the other hand, the deep-fried catfish tossed with crispy basil leaves and oyster sauce has just a little heat, but it’s not overwhelming. For dessert, you should opt for the ovoid of fresh mango paired with a soft-edged rectangle of sweet sticky rice that’s drizzled with a little condensed milk and a scattering of fried rice crisps. Or get the deep-fried bananas crisscrossed with a sweet golden syrup, but ask them to sub in creamy coconut ice cream for the usual vanilla. Take a deep breath before you go, so you can savor the experience for just a little longer.