There’s no doubt that this hospitable Old Town eatery, Jackson 20, loves the other white meat. A bronze pig sculpture greets you as the scent of sweet smoke laced with rich bacon tones wafts over you. At the tables, expansive white cloth napkins are presented in cute silver piggy holders. And there’s plenty of pork to order, from a trio of swiney sliders to ribs and an apple-stuffed chop. Don’t worry, there are plenty of other prime proteins and seasonal produce on this Southern-style menu if pork doesn’t suit your fancy. The L-shaped dining room burbles with lively conversations and the convivial clatter of cutlery. During the warmer months, the festivities extend out to the sidewalk. Jackson 20 possesses an inviting vibe that’s consistently strengthened by the staff, who are friendly, attentive and informative. Meals here are never stuffy or pretentious. Case in point is the fun and approachable wine list, which boasts categories like “Rich, Full and Luscious” and “Big, Bold and Dark.” The meal begins with a basket of just-baked buttermilk biscuits and corn muffins that taste even better when slathered with from-scratch maple butter. A great opener is the American farm cheeseboard, which can come with either three or six selections such as ash-laced Winnimere, Dunbarton cheddar with streaks of blue and gloriously gooey Cherry Glenn. Grilled toast brushed with olive oil and house-made jams are spot-on accompaniments. Entrees include BBQ favorites, hearty salads and carnivore-friendly fare. The North Carolina mountain trout sporting a slivered almond crust is paired with roasted apples and lemon-spiked braised kale. A surprising standout is beef stroganoff starring braised short ribs that sloughs apart at the lightest touch, no knife required. It’s paired with freshly made egg noodles mixed with English peas, ramps, and a mélange of mushrooms. For a side dish, make sure you order the mac ‘n’ cheese dotted with crouton-sized cubes of ham and the chewy bits of bacon. A closing course could be the minty Grasshopper Pie sitting on a satisfyingly playful Oreo crust, then topped with chocolate chips and a wee dollop of just-whipped cream. Three marshmallows – gold and slightly bubbled from a moment over the flames – add a whimsical flourish. Pigging out has never been so much fun.