*If you're interested in making a reservation for parties of five or more at Mintwood Place, please call the restaurant directly at (202) 234-6732 for availability. After his longtime stint as Michel Richard’s right-hand man at Citronelle and Central, city food-lovers anxiously awaited the arrival of Mintwood Place, Chef Cedric Maupillier’s collaboration with the owners of Mintwood’s upstairs neighbor, Perry’s. And if there’s one thing Maupillier seems to have in common with his former boss — aside from a mastery of French cuisine — it’s the ability to play with our concept of classics. For instance, the perfectly fried escargot hush puppies and the pickled deviled eggs, beet-stained and gorgeously presented with a translucent radish slice balancing on its yellow filling, are whimsical ways to marry French and Mid-Atlantic traditions. And a special of sardine filets that spent time in the 700-degree oak- and applewood-burning oven sat atop a bed of frisee dressed with house-made ranch dressing — the best ranch dressing you could ever dream up. But the native of Southern France also delivers on traditional versions of bistro fare, such as an outstanding cassoulet featuring house-made sausage, house-cured saucisson and his own duck confit. And steak frites with meaty, buttery Bordelaise sauce and potatoes that are brined before they are dipped in canola oil and beef tallow are the ultimate umami overload. His refusal to take shortcuts pays off, as did our wait.