The traditional Taiwanese noodle joint gets a 21st century twist at this H Street hot spot. The tiny space is a colorful riot of graffiti, fantastical figurines stand tall in glass cases, skateboards have been reconfigured as footrests, and a cluster of Maneki Neko (lucky cats) keep their paws up behind the bar. Even the bathroom is a trip: its walls plastered with pages from classic manga comic books, then tagged over by local artists. Pork, beef, chicken, seafood or vegetable dumplings can be steamed, grilled or fried. No matter what you choose, they come stuffed with a heady mix of aromatic garlic chunks, micro-slivers of punchy scallions and zingy ginger shavings. The ramen is equally packed, creating an intense complexity that reveals itself with each bite. The classic Hakata’s rich broth is the epitome of umami – savory, swine-y and briny – filled with thin noodles, shredded pork loin, pickled ginger rolled in greens and a razor thin rectangle of nori. A silky boiled egg bobs amidst the fray, waiting to be popped open so it can share its rich yolk. If you have room to spare, order dessert. Super cute bento boxes filled with a quartet of ever-changing sweets are shaped like yellow ducks, hot pink rabbits and black and white pandas, but the warm chocolate cookies with cold milk are the real winner. The trio of baked-to-order treats are hearty enough to withstand a good dunking, but soft enough that they practically melt in your mouth. All of this serves as a reminder that you can’t go wrong with the classics if you do them well -- and add a signature style to the mix.