When Willow’s owners, Executive Chef Tracy O’Grady and Pastry Chef Kate Jansen, opened the restaurant in September 2005, most diners had never heard such buzzwords as “locavore” and “sustainable.” But through the work of cutting-edge and reliable restaurants like Willow, many of us came to embrace -- and even expect -- that a dish enjoyed today might not be available tomorrow, a casualty of seasonal cooking. Things you might find on a winter menu include a wonderfully tender braised lamb served with lamb sausage crafted by local charcuterie guru Jamie Stachowski; flounder sautéed till golden and served with braised cabbage and delicate butternut-squash ravioli; and potato gnocchi nestled with mushrooms in a rich vegetable broth. Spinach salad is given a twist with deviled eggs, and its mustard vinaigrette is light and bright. In spring, diners will often find dishes highlighting asparagus, such as a creamy asparagus bisque garnished with asparagus tips. The bounty of summer could result in ratatouille-stuffed squash blossoms with zucchini-corn pancakes; and fall brings diners full circle with dishes like roasted pumpkin with faro and barley risotto. The wine program, overseen by sommelier Kevin Pruett, offers a dozen pages of wines from which to choose—including an entire page dedicated to Virginia wines. Pruett encourages servers to offer samples so people can try something different, and he keeps costs in mind when crafting his list. “I always try to provide something new and interesting at a reasonable price,” he says. He admits that the wine and cocktails lists are as mercurial as the kitchen. Even the name (and temperature) of the hot toddy is changed to “tepid toddy” in autumn. But Willow’s role as a white-tablecloth destination that offers the best of the season? We hope that never changes.