Chef Jung Sik Yim has brought modern cuisine from Korea, his home country, to TriBeCa. Everything about his restaurant sleek and formal, from the crisp white tablecloths to the overstuffed banquettes, arty bowls for soups and rice dishes and black-clad wait staff that eagerly attends to diners’ every need. The menu is large and can be enjoyed by ordering dishes in their standard size, or in smaller tasting portions. You can also commit to a more intensive option, the 10-course tasting menu, for $155 per person. Either way, the meal is an ambitious one, full of innovative, sometimes experimental, dishes. Yim went to culinary school in the United States and has worked at Michelin-rated kitchens here (Bouley, Aquavit), which might explain how some of his country’s traditional dishes take on Stateside-friendly twists, or how American classics get an Asian update. Take the Melange, a bourbon and bitters cocktail that would be a simple Old Fashioned if it weren’t deliciously spiked with mei shil (Korean green plums). The Tabasco Chicken entrée has its roots in classic Korean fried chicken, but its basted with the familiar hot sauce and comes with a chutney, which is similarly spicy with its kimchi flavor. And for dessert, the Apple and Rice Wine Baba is a delightful take on classic baba au rhum. There are plenty of traditional Korean dishes to choose amongst as well, and each has a unique history the servers share enthusiastically. There’s the Miyeok, a traditional “birthday meal”, available off-menu to anyone celebrating a birthday. It's a savory mixture of rice cooked in pureed seaweed and beef broth; the sea urchin is an oft-reviled dish that here is accompanied with flavorful rice and kimchi; and galbi, which are tender Korean short ribs. Each dish comes out of the kitchen looking refined, but its ingredients deserve to be stirred together – with the melding of various textures comes consistent surprises.