After a few good years, it’s natural for a great restaurant to rest on its laurels. But that’s never happened at Blackfish. In fact, it’s as excellent as ever. The bulk of the credit goes to to chef Chip Roman, one of the most restlessly creative minds in the Philly food scene. From the moment this Conshohocken BYOB destination opened in 2006, Roman’s talent was obvious. A recent hanger steak is a case in point. Its description reads clearly enough: steak, quinoa, broccoli. But that steak is slow-roasted until it’s deliriously tender, then served with a bright gremolata and three little rugby balls of creamed quinoa. Autumnal veal sweetbreads are plated with chanterelles, apples, and red onions, creating depth and vivacity. Roman and his team are just as deft with fish and seafood. Kusshi oysters are amped up with the ambrosial perfume of pink peppercorns and fennel, gently tingling on the tongue with carbonated lemon. Difficult as it may be, save room for dessert. Generous beignets — dipped in allspice and brown sugar — hardly need their accompanying raspberry and butterscotch dipping sauces, From start to finish, Blackfish is sophisticated in concept, lusty in flavor and as utterly exciting as ever.