Life in the suburbs exacts a particular set of compromises. For example: you get a yard bigger than a kiddie pool, but you give up easy access to exciting restaurants. But with its colorful mural and a sophisticated vibe, Cantina Feliz looks more like Center City than Fort Washington. Luckily, it tastes that way, too. The modern Mexican menu is in league with the buzzed-about spots suburbanites typically need to battle traffic to get to. Start your meal with a fresh fruit margarita and a bowl of just-mixed guacamole, served in a large stone molcajete (Mexican mortar and pestle), or one of the citrusy ceviches that are a specialty of chef Tim Spinner. From there, consider an order of the carnitas tacos: these slow-roasted and lightly crisped shreds of pork are some of the best available, in the city or out. The shrimp tacos, from the Al Carbon section of the menu, star plump and perfectly grilled shellfish. The side dishes are equally good, especially the elotes, grilled corn coated with lime mayo, Mexican cheese, and chile. Entrees are more like what you expect from a restaurant meal, with meats and fish dominating these dishes. But they are punched up with flavorful Mexican-inspired seasonings and sauces. The grass-fed strip steak and black bass are longstanding favorites of the restaurant’s devoted regulars.