There’s something to be said for a neighborhood bistro, the kind of place where you can bring the boss after work, the in-laws for a last-minute meal, the babysitter on her birthday. The ideal local spot won’t bust your diet or break your bank. It neither intimidates nor disappoints. You could dress up to go. But you don’t have to. Opened in 2011 by a group of pals, Fairmount’s Fare (get it?) is such a place. The concept: Eco-modern, but not preachy. So, your server might not mention that the bar’s pendant lamps are made from old traffic lights, or the dining room’s birch-tree wallpaper is recycled, or even that the leeks and fennel in your olive-dotted goat cheese dip are local and organic -- thereby saving you from a discussion about climate change with your father-in-law. Chef Tim Bellew’s menu is equally understated, gently striding the line between wholesome and indulgent. Though touching on edgier health-food fare (probiotic cashew cheese makes an excellent first foray into raw foods), most of his dishes, brunch through dinner, are comfortably recognizable. Pancetta-enriched chicken meatballs, watercress tossed with rich Maytag blue and bits of grapefruit tang, crab cakes dappled with avocado bits, and eminently shareable flatbreads whose toppings change with the seasons make for just the kinds of meals you’d make at home, if you could. But when you can’t – or don’t feel like -- DIY, you go out, to someplace nice, in the neighborhood.