It’s hard to imagine a time when there wasn’t a great BYOB in every neighborhood, but before there were spots like Bibou, Fond and Kanella, there was Matyson. In the early aughts, the BYOB scene exploded and the standard was permanently raised. Since then, many places from that era have shuttered, but Matyson remains a reliable standout with a progressive, risk-taking menu that changes every week. In 2008, when the original owners sold the business to Ben Puchowitz, a chef who had worked the line from the beginning, some worried that the magic had left the building, but the buzz from critics was that the food was better than ever. It might be that the five-course tasting menu, which spotlights a different seasonal ingredient each week, forces Chef Puchowitz to constantly generate creative new dishes and hone his skills. But technique clearly plays a role as well. A dish of mushroom-foie gras ravioli brushed with an uni emulsion perfectly balances the delicate pasta with the earthy depths of its filling and the ocean-breeze-like butter of its sauce. Kim chee may be the condiment of the moment, but here it’s paired unexpectedly with a salad of roasted beets, lentils and feta cheese -- the tart, funky heat of the cabbage accents the sugary beets. Fortunately, for those who prefer comforting classics to culinary derring-do, Chef Puchowitz also has a way with slow roasted meats (like the braised lamb shank that’s fall-apart tender) served with sides no more complicated than a butter-rich puree of starchy celery root and some nicely roasted Brussels sprouts. A dish like this isn’t as flashy as some of its menu mates, but like everything that comes out of the kitchen, it’s cooked with confident expertise.  

It’s hard to imagine a time when there wasn’t a great BYOB in every neighborhood, but before there were spots like Bibou, Fond and Kanella, there was Matyson. In the early aughts, the BYOB scene exploded and the standard was permanently raised. Since then, many places from that era have shuttered, but Matyson remains a reliable standout with a progressive, risk-taking menu that changes every week. In 2008, when the original owners sold the business to Ben Puchowitz, a chef who had worked the line from the beginning, some worried that the magic had left the building, but the buzz from critics was that the food was better than ever. It might be that the five-course tasting menu, which spotlights a different seasonal ingredient each week, forces Chef Puchowitz to constantly generate creative new dishes and hone his skills. But technique clearly plays a role as well. A dish of mushroom-foie gras ravioli brushed with an uni emulsion perfectly balances the delicate pasta with the earthy depths of its filling and the ocean-breeze-like butter of its sauce. Kim chee may be the condiment of the moment, but here it’s paired unexpectedly with a salad of roasted beets, lentils and feta cheese -- the tart, funky heat of the cabbage accents the sugary beets. Fortunately, for those who prefer comforting classics to culinary derring-do, Chef Puchowitz also has a way with slow roasted meats (like the braised lamb shank that’s fall-apart tender) served with sides no more complicated than a butter-rich puree of starchy celery root and some nicely roasted Brussels sprouts. A dish like this isn’t as flashy as some of its menu mates, but like everything that comes out of the kitchen, it’s cooked with confident expertise.